Stout dahlia branches loop may be prevented by driving in additional supports in a triangle round each plant, some little way from the stem to avoid damaging roots, pointing outwards at the top. These supports need not be as stout as the central stake, and even quite light canes may be used.

Some of the branches are secured direct to these additional canes, whilst the rest are retained by making a tie right round the outside of the canes. In the case of the giant cactus and clecoratives provide a supporting cane for every stem.

It is also possible by careful timing to ensure that the majority of plants can be induced to flower around a given date, by stopping plants of one variety at intervals of a few days, but to apply this system effectively it is essential to build up a considerable knowledge of the potential of all varieties grown.

The second is the removal of all pests. The dahlia is peculiarly susceptible to attack at this time; earwigs and slugs in particular will completely ruin a plant in a matter of days if allowed complete freedom. Slug bait should be used and the plant dusted or sprayed at intervals with Gamma B.H.C., or a similar insecticide. B.H.C. is recommended because this is also effective against aphides. There are a number of branded insecticides on the market containing this.

The individual blooms on a plant can themselves be timed to reach perfection over a short period by careful selection of the branches to be retained. The top pair of shoots will always bloom first, the pair immediately below a little later, and so on down the plant; the actual variation may only be a day or two, but even this variation is valuable. Hence it is usual when stripping off the surplus side branches, to remove one shoot of the two developing in the arils of each pair of leaves, from top to bottom, on alternate sides.

But the danger here is the tendency for the whole plant to swing in a circular fashion around the stake during high winds.